Monday, June 29, 2009

Segovia

IMG_1599 One last stop before we head out of Spain and back to the states for a spell: Segovia. Segovia is one of the cool little medieval towns outside of Madrid that desperately clings to a fortified hill in hopes of protecting itself from invading Moors, Christians, Visigoths, Hobbits, American tourists, and what not. It is famous for a couple of landmarks: a nearly 2000 year old Roman Aqueduct and a 19th century alcazar fortress which was supposedly the inspiration for Walt Disney’s fairy-tale castles. Not that we had much time or space to see them as we somehow managed to wander into yet another festival. I know what you’re thinking right now Jason Beck: “you’re killing me Mosko!” Not so J… we really had no idea this was going on! I guess that the Spaniards really need very little excuse to throw a party. I can see it already: Some town leaders sitting at a bar start drinking beers and talking and come to the conclusion “It’s June… Let’s throw a week long party!”. Brilliant! So we ditched our plans to tone it down and relax and headed out to the live outdoor concert that was being held in front of the Cathedral(!!) that night. IMG_1586 The band was pretty cool: some sort of a mash-up of Spanish rock and Celtic music complete with bagpipes, flutes, and fiddles. Click Here to have a listen to what Celtas Cortos sounds like. The concert didn’t start until 12:30am, but it was packed with people none the less. Everyone was just out having a good time, and all of the restaurants converted into outdoor walk-up bars which was super convenient. :) People dancing in the street… People dancing on balconies… Good times, good times.

Not resting on our laurels, we woke up the next day to partake in the rest of the week’s festivities. Yes… not only had we stumbled into another festival, but this one had been going on for two weeks now and we were hitting the ending ceremonies. This time, there was a children’s parade in the afternoon, followed by an outdoor gypsy/folk concert in front of the aqueduct. But before this we needed to eat, and were pleasantly surprised to find that there was a local Tapas competition going on. Most of the bars around town were offering their best dishes for 1.50 Euro… a deal too good to pass up. Time for a mid-day tapas crawl. I think that we only made it through around 4 bars of this, as we were ordering beers with every dish and got lit up pretty quickly! The food was fantastic though, and 4 Tapas each was plenty enough for our appetites.

IMG_1627 The festival ended with some fireworks over the city. Since we were staying outside of the city anyway at the Parador de Segovia, we headed back early and watched the show with the city as a backdrop. Nice.

Check out the photos (and a couple of video clips) over on Picasa:

http://picasaweb.google.com/richmosko/Segovia

and here is where Segovia is on the map of Spain (Click Here).

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Picos de Europa

IMG_1475 Amazing. How could someplace so extraordinary be so unknown… so obscured? We had a couple of extra unplanned days due to logistics in Carlos’s flight, and we needed a place to stay. We wanted a shorter drive, and noticed there was a national park along the way, the Picos de Europa. We had never heard of it (and the guide book only had a page on it), but this was just what we needed: some hiking to recuperate from all the night time partying we had been up to. And man, what incredible hiking. The Picos are kind of what would happen if you took the most dramatic parts of Yosemite and squeezed them into a small area… and then dropped them in the middle of Spain. It’s surreal.

We did three hikes here and they were all pretty spectacular in their own unique way:

  • PR-27 (De Brez): a quick hike as we only had a few hours to do it. This hike started at a cool little town called De Brez, and wound up at the foothills of the eastern most range (Montanas Oriental)… Lush green trails along the way, and impressive views of the snow capped mountains at the top of the route. We met some nice Brits along the hike who make sure we didn’t get lost and warned us about some of the roads further into the park.
  • PR-23 (Horcados Rojos): This was an awesome trail staring from the top of the Funicular at Fuente De…. It climbed something like 400 meters to one of the peaks which had a refuge hut and lookout point. Only problem was we were wearing sandals and the snow hadn’t quite melted yet. Sketchy! Fantastic Views though, and we met a couple from Ireland along the way who had it even worse than us: Tivas and injured ankles. Did I mention that the beat us to the top? :(
  • PR-3 (Cares Gorge): This was mostly a flat hike, but the path was really cool as it was carved out of the side of a steep canyon. One wrong step and you fall 1000 ft. to the river below. Very dramatic, and great photo opportunities. The drive out here was just as hairy as the Brits warned us it would be.

IMG_1485 I mentioned that we had met a couple from Dublin along one of the hikes… turns out that they were actually staying at the same pension as we were! We went on a couple of hikes together… amazing as both of them were nursing foot/ankle injuries. Ben’s injury was quite spectacular as she had broke her foot only 3 months ago. She injured it on an outing known in Ireland simply as “hunting”. Sounds benign but apparently it is an extreme sport there, performed on a galloping horse involving hurdling obstacles and racing hounds… Dick Chaney, eat your heart out. Anyway, hard to imagine the injury after watching her hike some tricky stuff. Simon and Ben: Good Times! Cheers, and hope to see you again some time.

Here are some pictures of our hikes and such:

http://picasaweb.google.com/richmosko/PicosDeEuropa

…and here is where the park is located:

Map of Picos de Europa

Thursday, June 25, 2009

Santander

IMG_1396 We briefly stopped in Santander to try to sneak in a couple more beach days before we left. We arrived and the sun was out in full force, but I guess the storms had followed us as the wind was howling! Pretty crazy weather for sunbathing/swimming. We took this as a sign that maybe we should take it easy after two weeks of partying it up with Carlos, and decided to nap, relax, and call it an early night. Wandering around looking for dinner presented other plans, however, as we seemed to have stumbled into yet another fiesta. This time it was the summer solstice festival, complete with DJ, beach party, and an enormous bonfire. Our “taking it easy” plans would have to wait. A lot of the people partying on the beach were college kids, and they were killing some Kalimotxe’s (50/50 red wine & coke) by the bottle. Makes sense I guess, as wine is so cheap here. 0.75Euro wine + 0.75Euro 2 liter coke = cheap mixer to go @ 6% alcohol. And they weren’t even bothering with the travelers: just walking around with entire bottles of wine on the beach. Too bad Los wasn’t here. ;)

Some pictures of Santander:

http://picasaweb.google.com/richmosko/Santander

Click Here to see Santander on a map of Spain.

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Bilbao

IMG_1340 Not much going on here except the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao (Click Here for Wikipedia overview). The Guggenheim is a modern art museum where the building architecture is as much on show as the collections themselves. The building, designed by Frank Gehry, is a mash up of curves and angles… more like a ship than a land structure. The most striking and distinctive feature of the design is the exterior shell: tiled in sheets of titanium almost like the scales of a fish.

Some of the artwork on display were interesting, though most were just bizarre: I’ve never been one to really understand modern art all that well. Some of the pieces that were cool:

  • a 30ft menacing steel spider outside the museum… complete with egg sack! very creepy.
  • 3D walk through art pieces by Richard Serra (a Matter of Timer). The shapes look random and ready to fall over, but are constructed from precise geometric shapes (cones, spirals, toroids, etc.) Cool to walk through the pieces then see them from above.
  • There’s this crazy Chinese guy named Cai Guo-Qiang (famous for Beijing’s Olympic opening cerimony) who is currently on display on the upper floors… his primary medium for art is gun powder. yeah, that’s right. He creates transient art through explosives in order to demonstrate the “timeless themes of creation and destruction.” Apparently he took to heart the notion that creation comes about through destruction, and that anything man creates will ultimately be destroyed. One of his experimental pieces was to extend the Great Wall of China by 10000 meters though a timed explosive display… alluding to the idea that even something as long standing as the Great Wall will eventually decay and be no more.
  • A series of 70 life sized clay sculptures in varying stages of decay and disrepair depicting the strive of pre-revolutionary China… also a work by Cai Guo-Qiang.
  • Head On: 99 life sized stuffed(?) wolves careen head first into a glass wall, expressing the dangers of blindly following the social norm (Cai Guo-Qiang).

The only other big thing that Bilbao has is the Airport, which we saw as Carlos was leaving from here to start heading back home. Los: we’ll miss you brah! Hope you had a good trip.

Some pictures:

http://picasaweb.google.com/richmosko/Bilbao

Click Here to see where Bilbao is on a map of Spain.

Sunday, June 21, 2009

San Sebastián

IMG_1179 Crossing over the mountains into Basque Country, one encounters some spectacular scenery. Lush, rolling green hills intersect with jagged climbing limestone… with little towns and villas dotting the countryside like some sort of storybook illustration. It’s views like these that make me understand why people lug around extremely fancy cameras (Rod, you know I’m talking about you!). There was only one problem though: cloudy skies… mist… fog. Growing up in Hawaii I knew that green hills meant lots of rain, and it looked like we were going to be getting wet. Rainy days at the beach… Bummer! I suppose it was bound to happen. We have had pretty good weather so far on this trip, but we were due for some rain at some point. Oh well. We’d just have to make the most of it.

Day 1

It wasn’t quite raining yet when we arrived, so we decided to walk the beach while we could and check out the scenery. There are three city beaches in San Sebastián, but the main one is the most famous: La Concha. It’s called La Concha because quite literally it is shaped like a sea shell. The sand here was light and super fine and the waters were cold… but not too cold: Perfect for swimming on a sunny day. I was determined to go swimming here at some point even if it ended up raining on me.

The town itself seemed pretty lively and I suppose that was understandable. It’s right across the border from France, so there seemed to be a lot of French and British tourists around. Finding a place to eat was no problem, as there seemed to be good looking seafood places everywhere we turned. We settled on one that seemed to have decent prices and were treated to some the best seafood I have had in a while. The fish I had was superb (I think it was Hake), and the mussels that Ana ordered were savory with a touch of sweetness. I didn’t try the fish stew that Los ordered, but it looked really good as well.

We started chatting with the the waitress and found out that her family was originally from Portugal. This made for interesting conversation (in Portuguese) as Carlos’s parents are from the Azores and Ana was born in Brazil. She quickly gave us the lowdown on the party scene and sent us on our way to a bar called Tas Tas. Not Ta Ta’s (Breslin, get your mind out of the gutter), but Tas Tas. We got there and the place was packed, sporting 2 for 1 beer specials. Our waitress did us right!

Day 2

IMG_1243 The next day we awoke only to discover that it was raining outside. No beach bumming today… Instead we decided to driver over to the next town called Donibane and do a little hiking along the coast. Supposedly one can hike all the way from France to San Sebastián: We wanted to pick a bit of that trail to get some exercise and see some cool vistas. The rain was very light here, almost misty, making for good cool weather hiking. We didn’t hike very far… a good thing as we stopped pretty often to admire the great views of the ocean and the coast.

Day 3

IMG_1315After another late night party binge, we finally made it out to the beach. The morning was a little bit rough for myself, but at least the sun had finally come out. I was ready for that swim I wanted, but for some reason no one was in the water. Was the water too cold now? I walked down and saw what the problem was: Jellyfish! I spent the better part of the afternoon debating whether to go in or not, and finally saw one or two people swimming. I went in and was fine. The jellyfish were in the water, but I wasn’t getting stung. My luck wouldn’t last though, as I got stung on the way out of the water… right on my throat. Ouch! Turns out vinegar is the way to neutralize stings, though Los kept offering to “help me out” by pissing on my neck. Thanks man.

Check out the pictures here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/richmosko/SanSebastian

… and here is San Sebastián on a map:

Click Here

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Pamplona

Just a brief update… We stopped in Pamplona for the night, as the drive all the way through to San Sebastián would have taken too long. We were too early for the festival of San Fermín by about 3 weeks, so we weren’t going to be able to see the running of the bulls. Oh well. Getting out of Barcelona was nice as we got upgraded to a sweet Alfa Romeo sedan: very fast :) The weather here is starting to turn… I hope that it clears up by the time we get to the shore.

Pictures for the day:

http://picasaweb.google.com/richmosko/Pamplona

Click Here to view Pamplona on the map of Spain.

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Barcelona

IMG_0916 It was a long drive getting here from Calpe, but when we arrived we received a warm welcome: our first visitor! Our friend Carlos (aka: Los) had decided to tag along for some of our Spain wanderings and had actually beat us to Barcelona due to various wrong turns and other typical delays. Barcelona was going to be a long stop for us, and because there was now three of us to house, we thought that getting an apartment here was appropriate. Man were we ready for it too. After driving around for a couple of weeks and staying 2 nights here and there, having a kitchen and dining/living area was going to be a relief. Unfortunately the place that we rented did not have a washing machine (despite the web ad), but at least it was quiet and at a great location: two blocks off of Las Ramblas pedestrian walk.

We had 7 days to work with in Barcelona, so it was quite nice seeing things at a more relaxed pace. The city is (or seemed at least) much bigger than Madrid, and required more time to walk around… especially true since most of the famous things to see here are the exquisite architectural structures. We started off just kind of strolling around Las Ramblas, checking out the people and street performers lining the walkway. It’s a surprisingly long walk covering a large stretch of the city and Los was a good sport despite severe jet lag. We had let him take an hour nap which might have done more harm than good. His eyes actually hurt from getting waken up so early and abruptly! In the end though jetlag was not an issue as Los became more of a night owl than even we were: more on this later.

Our goal for the first full day was to go on one of these Fatbike tours of the city. This was supposed to give us a good overview of the city in a more interactive way than going on a bus tour. Alas, it was not meant to be as we grossly overslept from partying the night before. I guess Los stayed up long enough to roll over into Pacific daylight time on his body clock. So instead of an 11am bike tour, we decided to take a 1pm walking tour of Parc Güell and some of Gaudí’s famous architecture. Parc Güell is an outdoor park that was originally intended to be a suburb of Barcelona complete with houses and outdoor common areas. Turns out the people of Barcelona had no desire to live in the suburbs no matter how nice the parks and the views. The business endeavor was a huge failure. Now, the area is dedicated as an open access park, donated to the city by the Güell family. And what a park it is… spectacularly sculpted and landscaped with some of Gaudí’s coolest designs. The whole thing looks like an acid trip inspired by some Alice in Wonderland Disneyland ride. Or maybe it’s the other way around? Hmmm. Anyway the ceramic tiled buildings, plazas, etc. are a beautiful sight to behold.

IMG_0955The next day we (barely) made it out to Plaza Juame to start the Fatbike tour that we missed the day before. I’m glad we made it. Seeing the city by bicycle was perfect for covering a lot of ground without completely killing our feet. We had a lot of fun and the the tour was much more interactive as we had an actual guide to listen to and ask questions of. Our guide “Buster” gave us some good tips on sights to see and places to eat that weren’t too expensive. We went to a tapas bar that night and ran into a couple that we met on the tour. I guess that we weren’t the only ones to take Buster’s advice! Stumbling out of the bar we wandered around and totally stumbled into a neighborhood block party. There was a DJ and tons of people dancing and guys selling cans of San Miguel beer for 1 Euro. What a great time! The best part was that I think the whole thing was some sort of fundraiser to restore the local church, so we did all of this partying right in front of the church in the wee hours of the morning. Too funny!

Woke up late the next day (surprising, I know), and headed out to Barcelonita for a spot of sun and swimming at the beach. The beaches here are a bit of an anomaly as they are all man made, but they are definitely nice enough. The sand was clean and fine and the water was cold but calm: great from swimming. One thing that took getting used to was all of the topless sunbathers on the beach (ok… this was easy to get used to for me and Los). I heard somewhere that it is perfectly legal to be completely nude in public here, as long as it isn’t creating a disturbance. Los brah: we’re not in California no more! :)

IMG_1085 The other days here start to blend in my mind at this point: a combination of too much beer, sangría, and rough mornings. One thing that I should mention is that we did go to visit the famous Gaudí landmark: Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família (la Sagrada Família for short). I know it’s expensive. I know it gets crowded. I know it’s not even finished and there’s scaffolding everywhere. It was still worth the view. Ana and I are getting good at timing these sorts of thing, so we showed up in typical fashion right as the Temple opened at 9am. We had the whole place to ourselves for a few minutes and didn’t have to wait in line at all to go see the top of the bell towers. The building itself is simply awe inspiring, even only partially complete. It’s definitely the most beautifully lit church I've ever seen, and the columns and ceilings are wonderfully organic… conjuring up impressions of taking a stroll through a very tall forest. And this is just on the inside. Outside, the building is marvelously decorated by intricate, ornate, and simply interesting sculpture everywhere the eye can see. In my opinion, this will be an architectural masterpiece without peer when completed.

The actual history of Barcelona and Catalonia in general is super interesting… lots of tension with with the rest of Spain stemming from the time of Ferdinand and Isabella. Click Here for a Wikipedia recap. Highly recommended reading.

Check out the pictures over at picasaweb:

http://picasaweb.google.com/richmosko/Barcelona

…also here is a link to Barcelona on a map for the geographically inquiring mind:

Click Here for map of Barcelona, Spain

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Calpe

IMG_0875 Got our first glimpse of the Mediterranean as we drove out of Andalusia. We were meeting up with Carlos in a couple of days, and needed to make our way over to Barcelona. The drive would have been too long for one day, so we decided to go off plan and head to the Costa Blanca somewhere halfway along the way. We stopped at a smallish town called Calpe which has some nice beaches and some really cool rock formations just off shore. The drive took the better part of an afternoon, so we pretty much crammed all of our activities into one day. We started off the day with a little morning hike up the Peñón d’Ifach, which is a 1100 ft. high rock that towers over the Calpe skyline. The views from here were spectacular, but the way up was a bit treacherous. Parts of the way were closer to light mountaineering rather than hiking. Still, we saw lots of people trying it in less than optimal footwear. One lady even made it halfway up in heeled slippers! From the top, I was able to plan out our beach activities, as we had a 360 degree panorama of the two bays below. I spotted an interesting looking cove below that looked like a great place to explore, so we headed down and got to some swimming. The water was cool and sooo clear! I swam around some rock outcroppings to the cove I had spotted earlier… only to find out that the people hanging around there (literally) were all naked. I had stumbled into a nude beach! I should have known better. I quickly turned back. This was enough adventure for one day.

Check out the pictures:

 http://picasaweb.google.com/richmosko/Calpe

…and here is Calpe on a map:

 Click Here to see Calpe on a map of Spain

One last thing… we had some paella out here and it was fantastic. I didn’t realize that normal paella didn’t have shrimp, but instead was a hearty concoction of chicken, deer, and rabbit. Mmm rabbit. So sweet and delicious. Who knew?

Monday, June 8, 2009

Granada

IMG_0713If you can only visit one place in Andalusia, visit Granada. Where as all of the cities we have seen in the south of Spain have been great, Granada seemed the most Andalusian(?) of them all. Not that Córdoba or Seville weren’t unique or authentic, but just that sense of history was easier to grasp here. Makes sense in a way, as this was the last of the Moorish strongholds to fall.

We started our trip in typical fashion: wandering around the streets to try and get a feel of the place. Since we didn’t get to see any flamenco in Seville, we wanted to scope ahead and reserve a spot somewhere in Granada.  IMG_0725Two separate people had recommended to us to view flamenco at this bar carved out as a cave on the side of the mountain. We ended up not doing this (sorry Matt!) as it had a super expensive cover charge. We found a flyer for a different place that didn’t charge any admission as long as we ordered dinner. The flamenco probably wasn’t as “authentic”, but I don’t know if we could have told the difference. The walk up to the show was spectacular, as we came across several lookout points with great views. Showing up for dinner was a bit of a trip, as we had stumbled into two bachelorette parties that had also come for flamenco. Needless to say, the show was rowdy! We had a good time though as the crowd seemed into the performance and could actually clap in rhythm.

The next morning we headed out early to go see the Alhambra. The Alhambra is a pretty unique building as it is a fortress, palace, and gardens all rolled into one. The gardens are particularly beautiful as the complex has its own aqueduct system just for feeding all of the fountains and such. We started out early to try and beat the crowds, and nearly got in for free as we beat some security guards to their posts! In the end it didn’t make much of a difference as most of the palaces are metered with appointment schedules. The sights here were pretty amazing though, so check out the pictures… and Click Here to read the description and history.

We tried to head out to dinner that night but never quite made it. We started out at a bar to figure out where we were going to eat. Problem was that the bartended kept giving us free tapas to keep us around! Every time that I ordered a beer, a new plate showed up. In the end we had to turn down the free food because we were already full.

Check out the pictures here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/richmosko/Granada

Here where Granada is on a map of Spain:

Click Here for map of Granada

 

Saturday, June 6, 2009

Seville

IMG_0682 I’m starting to fall behind on this blogging thing, so bear with me as I recall events that are a little hazy. We arrived from Carmona and found the hotel with no problem this time… kind of a first for us. I think that we’re getting better at this google maps / navigation thing. Since Carmona is only 40 km away we arrived fairly early and wasted no time exploring around. Our first stop was the Cathedral: a massive structure that is supposedly the largest (gothic cathedral) in the world and was at one point the largest overall in the world. The remarkable thing about this structure is that it was completed in only 100 years… quite a feat for the time. The building stands on the location of an old mosque which was torn down to make room for the new Cathedral. One of the buildings that still remains from the mosque is the Giralda: a 320 ft. minaret that towers over the city. The legend goes that King Ferdinand III rode his horse to the top of the Giralda to view the city after the Reconquest of Seville. Click Here to read about the history of the Cathedral.

For dinner we decided to head to the barrio of Triana: an old gypsy quarter across the Puente de Isabel II. We were searching for Flamenco in the town renown for it… and had heard that sometimes people danced Flamenco just for fun in bars there. When we arrived we were a little confused, as quite a few streets were closed of by the police. It turns out that somehow, we managed to stumble into a festival for the area and the police were making way for a procession… and no little one either. There were groups singing, people flamenco dancing in the street, musicians, ox drawn wagons, and some large glittery holy relic that was being carried to the local church. I wish that we had gotten some pictures of this, but alas my camera battery went kaput just at the wrong moment. Sigh.

The next day we took a walking tour of the city and strolled around the local park: always one of our favorite things to do. We didn’t really get to see any flamenco close up because of the parade craziness, so we went hunting for some clubs in the Barrio de Santa Cruz. We though we had some promising leads, but all we could find were some touristy set productions that cost an arm and a leg to just get in. No thanks. On our way back to our hotel we stopped in a cool looking bar that was surprisingly empty of locals and tourists alike. I kind of have a theory about cool local bars in Spain: To find a good local bar, look for a nice bar that is empty of both tourists and local around 12am. This works because there are no tourists, and it’s too early for locals to head out. We met a nice bartended from Mexico City who was in the middle of an argument with some people who did not agree with the bill. Some friends had put their drinks on their tab and didn’t tell them. The owner finally showed up and settled the situation, somehow blaming her (the bartended) for the mess. Drama!

Check out the pictures linked below:

http://picasaweb.google.com/richmosko/Seville

Also look for Seville on the google map linked below:

Map of Seville, Spain

Thursday, June 4, 2009

Carmona

We wanted to try veering off the planned path a bit, so we decided to stay somewhere overnight on the way to Seville. While looking at places along the way we found a little town called Carmona which had a very nice parador boasting spectacular views and a pool no less! What’s a parador you might ask? A parador is a chain of hotels that have historically been run by the Spanish state (Click Here for an in-depth description). Typically they are old castles, palaces, or monestaries that have been converted to luxury hotels. Our parador was one of King Carlos’s (the cruel) summer palaces, which sat atop a plateau overlooking the countryside. We spent most of the day walking around town and relaxing, visiting the Alcazar de Abajo and the Roman Necropolis. My big highlight was the pool, where I was able to get some sun and a few laps swimming!

Check out the pictures online:

http://picasaweb.google.com/richmosko/Carmona


View Larger Map

 

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Córdoba

IMG_0566 Getting out of Toledo turned out to be a lot easier than getting out of Madrid: Toledo is relatively small, so there’s only one main road getting in and out of town. We had what we thought was a decent set of driving directions and we printed out the corresponding maps to pdf for offline reference… yet somehow we still managed to get lost. Google maps may be great for following well marked roads, but we had underestimated just how confusing the road signs were in Spain. I really wish there was a way to save Google maps offline (and I miss my GPS!). So right off the bat we took the wrong highway (or stayed on it too long?), and missed the autovía completely: an awesome, beautiful detour that cost us an extra 1+ hours. Time well spent. We ended up staying on the old 2 lane highway that passed through the smaller towns along the way and hit some beautiful mountain passes through fields of olive trees. When we arrived in Córdoba we managed to get lost (I know, recurring theme), but similar to arriving in Toledo we found our hotel completely by accident. :)

IMG_0574 The next day we woke up early, as we kind of lost time (literally) driving over from Toledo. The morning was crisp and we had done a little bit of research, finding out that one of the better sights to see here, La Mezquita, was free to visit before 10am. This was a nice surprise and a great start to our day. What we hadn’t realized was that the 10am restriction also meant that no tour groups were allowed to enter early in the morning. Bonus! The Mezquita is a wonderful building to explore. This modern day church was originally a mosque before the 14th century and still retains most of it’s moorish architectural style and beauty. Viewing the building from the outside does little to prepare you for the elegance displayed inside. I can do it little justice describing it myself. To view an excerpt from the Fodor description, Click Here.

Once the tour groups started to arrive we exited the Mezquita and started a walking tour of the city. Our favorite part was exploring the narrow twisted streets of the Judería along the wall of the Puerta de Almodóvar.

Check out the online pictures for more details:

http://picasaweb.google.com/richmosko/Cordoba


View Larger Map

Monday, June 1, 2009

Toledo

IMG_0550We started our travel south through Andalusia by renting a car for a few days. From what everyone tells us, driving is the best way to get around in Spain as the roads here are quite good. Our rough plan was to hit Toledo and then the big destinations south of Madrid: Cordoba, Seville, and Granada. We booked our reservation online… really easy as we have internet connection in the hotel and our own laptop. When we got to the car rental desk though, all hell broke loose. We hadn’t copied down the correct reservation number and were required to actually have a paper printout of the reservation! Are you kidding me? After about an hour of running back and forth to internet cafes, we got out on the road in our beat-up little little car and proceeded to get lost. Driving on the highways here may be easy, but getting out of the heart of Madrid is no small feat!

Once we were found the Autovia driving was pretty easy. Our first stop was Toledo, just 60km south of Madrid. Technically Toledo is in La Mancha, but we decided to start off our driving tour here because the driving distance was not too intimidating for our first stop.

IMG_0552We arrived in Toledo in about an hour, only to realize that Toledo is not a driver friendly city. The city was a medieval fortress back in the day, complete with towering city walls and labyrinthine streets. Most of the streets could barely fit a single car and had tourists walking willy-nilly all over the place to boot. We circled endlessly looking for our hotel and somehow (miraculously) found it by accident! We were quite pleased with our good fortune and proceeded to check into our hotel. The woman at the desk explained to us that the parking garage was quite close (in fact we could see it from the lobby), but that unfortunately the street was closed for repairs. We would have to circle around the town yet again to park! Another half hour later (and many illegal reverse driving down one way streets) we were finally parked and ready to explore…

There is nothing really specific to see in Toledo except Toledo itself. The scenery here is spectacular, as the town was built upon a towering bluff surrounded on three sides by the snaking Tagus river. The whole thing is protected by a fortified wall, and has roads and alleyways that would put Lombard Street (San Francisco) to shame. We skipped all of the churches and museums as we would have many of those to see in the following days.

Check out the uploaded pictures for more insight:

http://picasaweb.google.com/richmosko/Toledo


View Larger Map

Pictures

Trying to get some pictures posted here, but the internet connection is spotty… for now, we have a link on the right side of the blog from the picasa web site. To go there directly:

http://picasaweb.google.com/richmosko

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